Presence

After a four hour delay in New York's JFK International Airport, we were on our way to the Indian subcontinent - a mere 17 1/2 hours, three first run movies and three meals away at an average speed of nearly 600 MPH. it all went fairly well up until that last 5 hours which seemed to stretch into about 10.

Upon arrival, I went through customs, grabbed my checked bag and hit the doors in wide-eyed anticipation. on my way down the hallway i noticed the definite presence of uniformed officials of some sort, one with a semi-automatic weapon. There were scattered around along my route and a group massed near the doors leading outside.

Apparently the whole city had been notified of my arrival because there was a throng of about 250 people behind make-shift barricades keeping them from spilling over onto the walkway I had no other choice but to wisely use. I saw dozens of hand written and printed signs with the names of the chosen few inscribed thereon. I hadn't yet found my name before one of those armed officially uniformed Indians hurried me along and when a hole opened in the crowd I stepped into it and blended in.

As much as a six foot tall bald white guy can blend in with a crowd of dark headed sea of people. I noticed there was chanting. It sounded like a protest. I learned there was some minister of something or other who had made his grand exit on the heels of my own - which explained the chanting crowd, the patriotic waving flags and the unceremonious hurrying along of myself by authority figure.

Enter official looking tout, stage left. I must have looked lost. Upon questioning me about where I was headed he told me it wouldn't be wise to go through the heart of the city at that time of night (1:30 AM), on that particular day (Anniversary of Gandhi's death) then recommended an alternative with a free cab ride, a reasonable rate and a speedy escape from the present madness. I took him up on it.

My first ride through the streets of Mumbai was fascinating. The city was fast asleep but there were signs that life existed everywhere. At the hotel I was asked to pay double what the official looking man had said I would have to pay. When I asked about it I was told 'those rooms are full'. Riiiight. I smelled a rat. I picked up my bags and made for the door. Once outside the hotel man ran after me, gave me the rate I had been told at the airport, and promised a free breakfast to boot. I stayed (cash only I came to find out).

Next morning, first thing (a mere 4 hours later) I was dressed and downstairs to catch a cab to the Railway Hotel, where I should have been all along. My cab driver completely RROOCCKKEED!! If you have ever driven with me you know I have a keen appreciation for anyone demonstrating an ability to read the road and position ones self one's best advantage. This man made me proud!!

He also gave me 44 more grey hairs and shortened my life by 273 days.

I learned that honking your horn is a sign of respect and you do it when you're being careful and obeying the rules rather than the other way around. This guy played the car horn like he was the first seat in the Mumbai Symphony Orchestra.

After a first sketchy evening, the trip was definitely beginning to looking up. After playing chicken innumerable times, experienced dozens of near misses (of other cars and other people) I was suddenly in front of my hotel. I quickly checked in and got back out on the streets to see the nearby structures. It was still early morning so I took a walk around the block, becoming an avid fan of street hawker and food vendor alike - all experts in their chosen field and a keen sharp knowledge of how to separate me from my rupees.

I kept a safe distance.

I ran across some kids who I asked if I could photograph. They all lived by one another in wooden structures attached something solid (I couldn't tell what) with their parents (I assume) and happy as anyone I have ever seen. They were more than willing subjects save for one lad who didn't want his picture taken. So (taking my queue from 'Born into Brothels') I employed him as my chief photographer, a job he took to with great interest. When we shot up my entire memory I had to bow out with a promise to return (which I did a short time later but the kids had evaporated).

I ordered lunch through room service on the cheap and got far more than I had bargained for. Next time I will order one thing instead of four (ggrrooaannn).

This is a before and after of the very first meal I ordered on Indian soil. I didn't understand that Pakora meant a whole plate of them. SO...I ordered two. And samosa and chicken biryani. Oh..and french fries, just in case all this wasnt enough.

Basically I was only able to finish one plate of pakora, some biryani and a samosa.

Proportion

It is the night before my flight. I need to get up in roughly 5 hours in order to final check everything, have a decent breakfast and get a lift to the airport for an 8 am flight. When I zipped up the bag last night and tried to lift it off the bed it nearly pulled off my left arm. My god, the weight limit was only 50 lb but this fat baby must have been close to 75.

Today at lunch I came home, unpack and reapportioned a few heavier items to my carry-on EuroSak. I have also opted for taking a 'man-purse' in the guise of a laptop bag but stuffed with granola bars, jerky and iPod for my 25 hour travel extravaganza.

In the morning I shall try once more to lose a few more things I used to think I just couldn't do without. I have been working on the process of streamlining for about two weeks with my laptop becoming the first casualty of reality. Daily I have continued trying to make my collective flight proportions smaller however lack of sleep has not enhanced my decision making abilities. Every new determination is achieved only after great effort (and not a little anguish). Sigh.

I could really use a vacation....

Program

I have listed some of the things that I would like to do during my 21 days in India. Some are definitely going to be harder than others.

Here they are in no particular order:

1. See the Taj Mahal at sunrise and/or sunset

2. Take a boat journey out onto the Ganges River

3. Join the interactive goings on of a Hindi movie theater

4. Hitch a ride on an Elephant and a camel

5. Learn to cook an Indian meal

6. Take a train and a bus from one city to another

7. Act as an extra in a Hindi movie

8. Fly a kite

9. Eat something completely different

10. See the caves at Ajonta & Ellora

11. Check out the temple at Khajuraho (and post the pics!)

12. Barter with wallahs for gifts

13. Drink chai on a porch

14. Correctly learn a Hindi song on the ukulele :)

15. Journal

And of course I would like to visit old friends and meet new ones along the way but that doesn't have to be listed. I think it will just happen.

Possibilities

Okay, so I am going to India. What, what, what am I going to do there!? I could sit around all day and soak in the experience from Barista, their very own Starbucks-esque coffee shop, watching people from a table by the window and sipping some marvelous brew or other, wrapped in warm repast amid repeated sighs of deep satisfaction.

I could embark on a culinary adventure set to the tune of Mumbai street vendors excitedly hawking everything from pakoras and dosas to samosas, chaat and a lot more I have yet to experience and would likely make me as ill.

I could stay in my hotel room with my remote, order pizza from Pizza Hut (oh yeah baby), get some Guinness and channel surf for something I can understand (just like in Fresno....).

I could do these and a thousand other things. But I am going to India.

India.

Who goes to India just to have Chinese? Why have 'coffee shop' coffee when you can risk everything on in small, corner, one-of-a-kind cafe? When life as you have never experienced before is blasting past you, full tilt, just opposite your door, why sit back and let it all happen without you jumping in, helter skelter, head first, and with wild, reckless abandon?

The simple answer is you don't. Ever. At least not if you want to stay connected.

All our lives we hear "Stay within the box. The box is your friend". There is nothing wrong with the box. I can exist, even flourish, inside the box. But stepping outside the box can be so refreshing. So exhilarating. So life changing.

Since I have never been to India I can only listen, read and ask about what I should expect. Even then, I am told, I will not be prepared for what I will face for the first time in person. The throngs of people, the smog, the dirt, the wallahs, the beggars, the corruption, the theft, the almost-certain-illness.

For me this is like saying "Don't press that button, NO MATTER WHAT!". It's the kind of warning that, after careful consideration, appears to have the opposite-than-desired affect.

Tell me I shouldn't do something and I am all the more intrigued by it.

It's one thing to hear about something. It's another thing altogether to actually experience it. I have been in contact with other travelers who have all run into some of the things that I have described here, and more. And since everything does not appear to be happening to everyone I should be pretty much okay.

An acquaintance of Indian descent went to visit relatives in Delhi but was 'sick the whole time'. Someone from New York is currently there now and experiencing no ill effects (pun intended) whatsoever. The latter did however have to deal issues such as loneliness and the daily "sarong-wallah-ambush". I can't wait!

Places

I am going to be arriving in Mumbai well after dark. 10:30 pm local time (9:00 AM PST). I will have awaiting my arrival a chauffeur holding a sign marked with my last name ready to whisk me away in my own private limo to my luxury suite at the Hilton Mumbai.

Just kidding. Actually it's a cab driver and he will be taking me to the Railway hotel located near the Fort district of Mumbai (above the lower peninsula near the Gateway of India).

From what information I have been able to gather my hotel is directly across the street from the General Post Office and just down from a major, well known train depot, the CST. Both buildings are architecturally and historically magnificent (click on the image below for a larger view). The hotel itself looks very quaint at night. I wonder what it's like when the sun comes up.

I am quite excited to be going there regardless of day or night appearance. That it's secure works for me. The price of a standard room is only $50 which includes air conditioning, a hot item here for the tourists and you pay extra for it. I also have an attached bath. Something else you pay extra for.

The first hotel I wanted to book was only going to cost me $30/nt but their online reservation system didn't work. An email to them reported back that people all over the world make reservations online, why couldn't I? So I called them. English was not their strong suit, however, and I was hung up on before I got around to what I had called for. Enter Railway. Online systems operational; English speaker within 'it's for YOU' range of the phone; desk clerk forward thinking enough to send stretch limo for airport whisking.

I voted with my rupees.

Packing

After moving 11 times in 12 years, I got pretty damned good at packing. I've just never been very good at packing light. When I prepare for a trip I usually take far more than I will ever really need. For although I can never think of any actual scenarios mitigating the need for anything extra, I never wanted to leave unprepared for even the remotest possible contingency (what if a seagull poops on my sweatshirt?). Pretty pathetic, I know. But that's because I was always relatively close by, still in the country, definitely in a city. I went with more because I could go with more, despite the laughter of my beloved colleagues who seemed perfectly content to live out of a shoebox.

Using other Indian travelers packing lists for inspiration, and taking into account the realization that I will be lugging around everything I pack, I have decided to attempt this 'simplifying' thing that seems so popular. That I am going to be traveling for three weeks relinquishes me from any notion of being prepared. Instead I am going to pack enough for a few days at a time and hope for the best. Of course besides clothes I am going to bring meds, a little bit of toiletries and, of course, small electronic devices.

I am torn as to what shoes to take. For now I think I will probably travel in white leather court shoes. IndiaMike's opinion for footwear in the country are a type of comfy strappy sandal that supports and cools. Thats all well and good but do you wear socks? No socks? I remember the Seinfeld where wearing socks with sandals made you a dork. Is being a tall, bald, white dork socially acceptable in India?

This is my packing list (so far)...

Clothing:
Two pairs of khaki pants - tan and green
One pair of lightweight rock climbing pants - green
Five t-shirts - asst colors
Four over shirts - asst colors
Lightweight khaki 'safari' jacket
Elastic khaki belt
Five pairs boxers
Five pairs socks (black)
Cap
Towel

Toiletries:
Three disposable razors
Mini can shaving gel
One bar soap
Deodorant
Body Spray
Toothbrush
Toothpaste
Pain reliever
Anti Diarrhea pills
Anti Malaria pills
Asst Vitamins
Moist wipes
Antibacterial lotion
Sunscreen
Deet (lots)

Books:
Lonely Planet: India
Frommers: India
Wallpaper City Guides: Mumbai
Hindi Phrasebook
Eat, Pray, Love
Bible






Electronics:
iPod
DigiCam
VidCam
Three 2GB SD cards
SD Card reader
2GB Flash Drive
Ultra thin 60GB external HD
3 in 1 USB adapter
Noise Canceling Headphones
Hand crank flashlight/radio
Genuine Swiss Army Knife
Mini Binoculars (8X21)
Watch
AAA Batteries
AA Batteries

Asst:
Travelers cheques
Rupees
C Card
Debit Card
Passport/Visa
Boarding passes
Turkey Jerky
Pocket Calendar/Itinerary
Reading glasses
Neck pouch security wallet

Gifts:
6 Starbucks Fresno City Mugs
1 Starbucks San Francisco City Mug
3 Paperback Calvin & Hobbes books

Preparations

The net is a wonderful place. The uneducated man can become a temporary authority on nearly anything in just minutes. So when the time came that I needed to know how best to prepare for my upcoming trip to India, I simply opened my laptop and logged on.

Through a plethora of travel sites I have gleaned much about clothing, footwear, precautions, adjusted expectations, etc. I have read individuals who tell stories of their personal experiences meant to equip you with necessary knowledge and best practices. There is information on accommodations ranging from the unbelievably inexpensive all the way up to what you might expect to pay if you were in a high-end Hawaiian resort. There are 'must see' attractions and 'must do' activities. Restaurants, clubs, historic sites, tailors, dentists....

One of the best sites for this kind of thorough handling of anything a traveler might need to know concerning India is IndiaMike. People from all over the world post questions and answers; newbies and experienced travelers, native and non-native Indian residents, etc, with some threads still alive after over a year. My introductory thread sparked a four page discussion about where to get the best coffee and how you need to ask for it. The breadth of knowledge on this site is great. Of course everything needs to be filtered through good level-headed logic (like discussions against anti-malarial medication) but overall the instruction here has been invaluable. Keep in mind that although the moderators are also contributors, it is we-the-people who make IndiaMike run and there will be as many opinions as there are members.

I have also found Lonely Planet, Frommer's and Virtual Traveler to be informative web sites with decent information on attractions, lodging and transportation. But unlike IndiaMike these sites place travelers input on a level secondary to their own staff writers, which can feel convoluted at times - especially when their recommendations are contradicted by real travelers.

It is well said that in the multitude of counselors there is wisdom. So I am doing my homework, evaluating all the information at hand. But I am paying special attention to those whose reports back are less likely to be bound to a business plan.

Prelude

India. Geographically the seventh largest country with the second largest population in the world (1,129,866,154 people). When I think of India I have images of this rich, nearly unfathomable history. I also see a country which despite the overwhelming poverty seen among it's inhabitants (282,466,538 people live below the poverty line) is very much a force to be reckoned with on the worldwide economic and political stage. I see a nation tied to thousands and thousands of years of tradition, yet making bold strides to overcome the negative social consequences of certain traditions for the benefit of a new generation of people...and ultimately for the future of their country.

In 2004-2005 life had not been going well for me. I had just moved out of my house and my 23 year marriage. With my laptop fired up on the kitchen table of my lonely new apartment I began to blog about my current situation, after stumbling upon the medium by accident. I found blogging to be unexpectedly cathartic. From that point and over the course of time, I became acquainted with a delightful group from India who wrote blogs on the same network I was using. Most were either working toward their degrees or had already launched out into career; a fashion designer, an academic, a writer/illustrator, a media personality, an IT professional, etc. I found their writing and interactions with me to be informed, intelligent and witty. But I was most encouraged by their welcome despite the age difference; they in their 20's, I in my 40's.

In the 3-4 years since, I have hosted three of these friends in my home at different times. Two have moved to the US; one of these to this city, has recently married and is working at the same company as me. We meet up frequently for red wine and fine cuisine (the best home-made burgers this side of the Mississippi).

You might recall the summer of 2005 as the summer of Hurricane Katrina. However, one month prior to that, in July, Mumbai was flooded by a sudden heavy downpour (+37" of rain in 24 hours). Over 1,000 people died. Naturally, since I knew of several people from that area, I was concerned. I watched the situation closely - and also blogged it as accurately as possible. One of the things I learned during that time was that the Indian people are resilient and courageous. Several stories of risk and bravery surfaced and I became an even greater admirer from afar.

It is in realization of a dream that from January 29th through February 20th, 2008, I will be there. Having the opportunity to experience first-hand the country that I have learned to love vicariously through those who have loved me is an exciting next-step for a life in which unexpected turns have yielded some unexpected friends.