Power

I had sort of 'forgotten' just how uncomfortable the train can be. On a long trip. Overnight. Trying to sleep. In a crowded car of people who whisper yelling. The noise I can tolerate. I can handle the light as well. I have Alcatraz that pulls neatly over my eyes making it instantly night time 24 hours a day. I also had those pinchy foam earplugs that expand in your ear filling in any possible route for ubiquitous noise to filter through. Only important noise filters with these babies.

Surprisingly the train came on time. As it pulled into Varanasi I was certain this was the train that was to depart just before mine. As if I was in an airport and this was all as easy as moving an airplane a little to the left so the rest of us could squeeze past to ours. Thinking this way was a learned habit. The flight to Mumbai from JFK - 4 hours late. The flight from Mumbai to Delhi (first time) - 1 hour delayed. The train from Agra to Varanasi - 1 hour late. But no, this was my train. Sleeper car B1, berth 5 (yeah the top one again, on the very end, same as last time). I was already friends with the light and fan so it was like a reunion. This time the car steward passed out sheets and blankets as if to mock us all with the impossibility of ever getting comfortable enough to get a nights sleep.

I lay on my back because up here one does not sit up. I read. I thought. I ate stuff. I bought chai and Nescafe. I napped. I read. I ate stuff. I bought chai and Nescafe. I napped. For 17 hours. I do not believe I have lost any weight, in case I haven't mentioned this before. Too much time to read, think and eat.

Back in Varanasi I met a Scottish MD who had been here on business. This was his 5th trip and you could tell. He carried only one medium sized backpack and an umbrella. We spoke for a bit when he asked me if this was the train to Delhi. Luckily he caught up with me in New Delhi Station itself and offered to to coach me on the ways of getting through the gauntlet in one piece. As it turns out hotels are within easy walking distance of the train, something I was surely not going to learn from the crafty snakes and thieves driving rickshaws and cabs. There is this feeling of power you experience when you refuse to fall for the misdirections of pirates. Here no one speaks to you in a friendly manner unless they want something from you. Guilty until proven trustworthy, I now say. Finally, down a skinny thoroughfare lined by shops and hotels just stretching and yawning before opening up for the day, we parted ways. Me to a second story hotel room with running hot and cold water and HBO close to the train for $16 and he to the Intl Airport for an early flight home to Scotland.

I am close to a German bakery again. You really have to admire those Germans. No doubt they went through a lot to put all these bakeries over here in India. Like the Catholics did for missions up the coast of California. Now hungry pilgrims from all over the world can have a danish and real coffee on the cheap. After checking into my hotel I went down for a spot of breakfast, Spanish Omelet, they were calling it. Came with spicy large cut potatoes and real coffee. Less than $2.00. However about halfway through the meal all the power went out. Blip! Darkness. A gasp arose from the crowded dining room. Just then someone started up a very loud generator, the lights came back up and less than 30 seconds later we continued as if nothing had happened. Just some new noise. Whatever.

This place has a coffee grinder, I saw it with my own two eyes. I am in their Internet cafe right now dreaming of my next cup of real coffee. I will be no doubt venture on over for a cup once I am finished here. Tomorrow afternoon, 3:30 PM my time and 2 AM PST, I shall be off to Ahmedabad, this time I have friends where I am going so it should be good. See you there!